Undercover S/S 2010

Different designers have approached appealing to their customer base in a recession in different ways: some have reinvented the brand, some have gone back to "brand DNA", most have embraced a philosophy of making memorable clothes and doing it well. This emphasis on memorable clothes, on stand out clothes, has brought a lot of color and trimmings and memorable pieces into our fashion orbit for S/S 2010. But what happens when a designer does the opposite, when they make versatile, simple pieces? Pieces that are perfect for mixing and matching: pants, shirts and dresses in neutrals and eggshell blue that could be worn anywhere. But done so well that the very simplicity and versatility becomes memorable. Undercover is full of wardrobe staples: skinny suits in eggshell, pencil skirts and three quarter sleeve blouses, and dresses in smoke, black and eggshell blue. All of these pulled together by little touches, in hems, seams and collars, of a muted cherry red and a burnt pumpkin orange.

I would wear almost any piece in this collection, not for a White House state dinner or for the Academy Awards but to run errands or to lunch with my friends or to a baseball game (okay, maybe not to a baseball game). As fashion strives to make memorable clothes, I think it is important to remember that "unique" garments aren't the only ones that can stand out to a consumer.

Duro Olowu S/S 2010

If I could wave my magic fashionista wand and make a label and a designer famous, it would be Duro Olowu. From the first time I saw one of his collections, I was impressed by the mixing of patterns and the joyous use of color-no collections full of drab neutrals for this designer. This collection saw some floral patterns, as well as some solids, being mixed in with the usual prints, but that slow expansion of the brand just means there are even more places to wear your Olowu dress.

Daul Kim 1989-2009

vaya con dios









(pic from fashionologie)

Rochas S/S 2010

I admit, I did my best to dislike this collection. The S/S 2006 collection that Theyskens did for Rochas was the first time that I fell in love with a fashion collection. It sent me on this long fashiony journey that, currently, has me writing this blog entry and mentally restyling people on the subway. So, getting back to the point, out of some kind of loyalty-esque emotion, I really wanted to hate this collection but I found that I couldn't. It's pretty and spring and I love the color palette and the dresses are covetable and wearable.

Did I mention the colors, which bring to mind leaves and delicious confections and the kind of rich warmth that one finds in only the best decorated kitchens and verandas? The use of color, and the warm & rich browns, oranges and purples are what make this collection stand out. The colors are what give this a point of view that allows it to rise above the "emerging designer" cacophony.

3.1 Phillip Lim S/S 2010

My selection of looks from this collection isn't exactly representative. This collection had a lot of tailored elements, a lot of pants and jackets-crisp, clean looks. But what I loved about the collection, as you can see, were the skirts. Lim took that tailored aesthetic and applied it to color blocked and solid dresses and skirts, with tops that draped from the shoulders to form a softer neckline or tailored to a v-neck.

My favorite part was the pleating of the skirts and the movement of the skirts. Working with a variety of materials, in a selection of mostly neutrals, all of the skirts moved and flowed while keeping their shape and silhouette. Gorgeous work.

Gary Graham S/S 2010

This collection certainly justifies Graham's CFDA nomination. Romantic, technically accomplished and beautiful from the front and the back. Collect them all!

Erdem S/S 2010

The issue with being the Next Big Thing, any previous Next Big Thing would tell you, is how you follow up that moment and start the transition to Big Frakking Deal. Erdem broke through last year, their collection of watercolor-inspired florals make this label a Next Big Thing. This collection was full of beautiful floral prints and cute dresses (mostly for day) and, best of all, lace overlays that call to mind Prada's lace dresses but, in laying them over rich colors to create patterns, are definitely more than just retreads. In spite of the strengths, this collection felt a little repetitive to me, with its repetitive dress shapes. A little judicious editing would have gone a long way for this runway presentation.

Doo.Ri S/S 2010

Now, I am about as objective about Doo.Ri as, well, something that is really non-objective. One of her dresses was among the first I fell in love with, back in the days when I was a baby!fashionista. So I have enjoyed seeing her evolve and experiment (mostly successfully) over the past couple of years.

I don't know if it is a reflection of her mindset in this economy but this collection felt very chilly to me: very blue, very grey-almost cold. I look at these clothes and see they are easily "warmed up" with styling but it doesn't change my initial impression that there is something a little distance, a little inaccessible about the girl wearing these clothes. There is a cold romanticism to these clothes.

Clements Ribeiro S/S 2010

I will admit to not being a fan of kitsch or of cats. Okay, truthfully, I think cats are evil. But in spite of the kitschy cat hook, this collection is more than that and that more is both interesting and wearable. There was a point of view, there was great work with stripes, there were about twelve pieces I want in my closet.

Carlos Miele S/S 2010

The highlight of this collection for me were the prints, and the highlight of the prints was the one shouldered black and white print that was color blocked with swatches of black and the strapless multicolored print with black trim and black diagonal striping on the bodice.